Greetings….finally, from Chateauneuf-du-pape!! I did not think that it would take me this long to get set up here but the days have flown by.
The flights were completely ordinary (the way I like to fly) except for the one French man who seemed to have a disagreement with the flight attendant. I know that we were all crossing our fingers that the flight did not get turned around OR even worse the FA decided to quit her job and jump out the escape hatch with a couple of beers. Finally after he yelled, “leave me alone, go do your job”, everything seemed to settle down. We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport about ten minutes late, which did not seem to be an issue….but, every trip needs a story or two. The line for customs was wrapped around the airport almost a full circle and that chore took almost twenty minutes…OK, still no big deal. Please remember I did have a train to catch, but I had one hour and twenty five minutes to make the train and the station is in the airport, not ten minutes away. So, why did I miss my train?? My baggage did not arrive until 8:18….OVER ONE HOUR after landing. I arrived at the train station at 8:26 missing the train by exactly five minutes. And what really frosts me is that the train did not wait for me…..no consideration anymore.
I picked up the 11:43, which again was no real issue as I did not have too much of a schedule on the other end, but it was a tad expensive. Naturally, I had bought my ticket online and got a pretty good deal…but, no refund, no change. Grabbed a car at the Avignon TGV, and after two and half hours of parking and walking I charged my French phone in Avignon and then drove straight to Courthezon, the village where I am staying. I was happily greeted by my host Dominique Grangeon, a member of the family who owns Domaine de Cristia. It was late enough that getting settled and dinner were about the extent of the evening (that lasted past midnight).
Work started the next day at 8:00 sharp including a meeting with Baptiste, Dominique’s younger brother who is the winemaker AND the boss, and Gérald Lafont their consultant. He works with the renowned Philippe Cambie who is the most noted consultant in Chateauneuf and now elsewhere in France.
It has been a few years since I was dragging hoses in the cellar. Fortunately most of it came back quickly. We are a small threesome for crush, the third being Michel. Michel is a friend of Alain, father to Dominique and Baptiste (and third child Florent who I have yet to meet). Michael reminds me so much of my dear dear friend Michael Hall (no longer with us). Both are retired engineers who found a love of wine. This is Michel’s first year working in the cellar and I can see that there will be some serious home winemaking in his future. Michael Hall also fell in love with winemaking. He and his wife Birgit had an incredible vineyard in Napa Valley next to the Shafer Hillside vineyard. The grapes were sold to many noted Napa wineries but Michael would hold out a ton for his own use. Frankly, a couple of his vintages rivaled anything selling for $50-100 from our friends in Napa. Both men are quiet, thoughtful, wise, and have a fabulous shock of silver hair. Although Baptiste is a youngster, I believe that he has the oldest cellar crew in the Southern Rhone (Michel is 72 and I am 57….a real change from the young beefcakes that often work crush).
I cannot believe that four days of cellar life have transpired. I have been assigned delestage (rack and return) and remontage (pump overs), a minor blend or two and of course crushing vintage 2010. We pulled in Vin de Pays, Vin de Pays Vieille Vignes, and Rasteau. Next week Vacqueyras, Gigondas, and the prime vineyards from Chateauneuf. Here is a brief pictorial of my first days:
Baptiste and Gerald busy at work
My Delightful Coworker Michel
The Crew Picking Vin de Pays
Ahmed, Vineyard Foreman for the Past Thirty Years
Ahmed & Eugenia Get Acquainted
The Vineyard at Rasteau
Well, that’s about it for now. I need to get back to the party. Dominique has invited friends in for Friday night and the First International Grenache Day. The bubbles have been opened and a blind tasting of several grenache bottlings await us….along with a very tasty dinner (Dominique insists she cannot cook….but of course like most French women, she is a superb cuisinière!
My Lovely Host, Dominique with Our Repast
