A week of family vacation is a true rest. “Enjoyed” fully it restores not just the body but some core sense of being that only comes with family history. I put enjoyed in quotes because of the chiaroscuro that comes with the pain/pleasure of looking inward. Family interactions demand family “bare your soul” kinds of evolution and inevitably there is some catharsis. For me it is one of those things that I love and hate. I always prosper from the experience, but it painfully peals away another leaf of insulation.
I had one final weekend before the last week of work and then home. With no prior obligations to burden my thinking I pulled out the map to find some new territory. I thought that I had read that Mirepoix was the capital of copper pots and with fantasies of one day having a kitchen of my own in France I headed out on Saturday morning with a destination.
As I was driving along my designated route I saw a sign for Limoux. I had wanted to see that town as well; home of Blanquette de Limoux one of the world’s most delightful quaffs…and at full throttle, an up on two wheels left turn had me on a detour.
The town was incredibly vibrant. I arrived around 11:00 on a picture perfect Saturday morning in the springtime. Puffy clouds, razor sharp sunshine, a light breeze bordering on warm…you get the idea. There was a market in the middle of town which came as no surprise but the streets seemed to be teaming with people. Every weekend in May and June includes some kind of fête or celebration, often to wine, and people seem to truly enjoy the excuse to be out and about…and chatting!
After a short walk about town I was back on the road returning to my original destination, Mirepoix. Coming out of Limoux I picked up the D620 and found myself driving through yet another spectacular valley in France. I thought often about stopping to photograph the area but the spectacular nature of the hillsides would have been lost with my technology and ability. What interests me is how what appear to be remote valleys have obvious “tree farms” up and down the hillsides. If this is what it appears to be, managed forests inside natural habitats my compliments to the French. There were no raped patches in among the wooded areas. I can’t say whether or not it works economically, but it sure works ecologically. A tear drop drive.
From the valley I hit farm land that was wide and open. Agriculture shifted from tree farms to animal farms as this area allowed for fields of open grazing. The landscape was incredibly picturesque.
Entering the town of Peyrefittes-du-Razès
First Town of the Valley
Moo
Food for Moo
Maison for Moo
Another Moo Another Town
Mirepoix is a bit of a surprise for someone that does not realize what “medieval city” means in France. Even I, at 5’ 2” would be banging my head on ceilings and overhangs in this town. It was an amazing site to see as the reality of time and change (especially marked by size) are visually in front of one. Our ability to feed ourselves and prosper physically is abundantly (all puns intended) clear.
Food in an American tourist town is to be avoided at all costs. The opposite is often true in France (and other old world cities as well). I ended up in a lovely spot but with an odd premise. The restaurant had a serious patisserie and then this add on lunch place. The menu was somewhat eclectic with only nominal hommage to the usual entrecôte et frites. I ended up with a pasta with tandoori chicken and it was one of the best meals I have had in ages. Delicate pâte, sweet chicken, lightly coated in a cream sauce exuding spices of turmeric, coriander, cumin, ginger, and Garam Masala. Weird…medieval town, exotic food. Yum!
Mirepoix Cathedral
The Scene from Lunch
Medieval Homes
New Commerce, Old Venue
From Mirepoix (oh, not sure about the pots but I saw no evidence of them!) I headed to Foix. I missed the turn completely as the town of Foix was not along this new and improved road. My error took me through a long tunnel as I overshot the town. Really amazing the way the Europeans tunnel through rock. Why does it seem different? I flipped my way back along the side/town roads that twisted and turned, but mostly followed the tunnel. I wanted to stay in Foix that night so made that the next objective. During my round about method of returning to the city I noticed a small lake just north of town. There I found a delightful hotel with an overlook to the lake, a perfect spot for the night.
The town of Foix turned out to be charming. The sun does not set until late and there is time each evening for a long “sunset”. I found mine in town and then lakeside.
"Street Sign" for Local School, Foix
Foix, Cared for by Their Castle
Sunset on My Lake
Final Sunset Swim with the Ducks
