The next stop along the grenache trail was the DO Campo de Borja. The area does not get a lot of respect sadly. Perhaps because the wines that hail from the area, at least many that we see in the states are so reasonably priced….really, $8.99/bottle and even less. But in fact this appellation has some of the most exciting old vine viticulture in Spain. Garnacha is by far the number one grape with 68% of the red production which is just short of 95% of the grapes. The weather is heavily influenced by the Moncayo Mountains.
The trip from Navarra to Campo de Borja was remarkable as I climbed to about 2200 ft. along miles and miles of hillside terraces neatly cascading down to the Huecha River bench land. The tiers were filled with a variety of fruit and nut trees each in a different state of spring flowering. Neat, tidy, serene, and beautiful steps of agriculture nestled at the foot of the Moncayos still covered in snow.
As I wandered the countryside from one end of the valley to the other and up to the south and down to the north I discovered one small ag town after another. What I did not expect to encounter was the town of Talamantes.
Apparently the Moncayo mountains are a hiker’s heaven. As I drifted along a country road with agriculture on both sides I hit the dead end at the town of Talamantes. This is the headlands to the Parque Nacional del Moncayo and I am sure that on a summer day the place is packed. But on this late winter day of pure sunshine and spring hopes I found the place deserted. I left the car and walked the town for perhaps an hour. I did not see or hear the activities of a single person. One lazy older Golden Retriever was sunning himself on the side porch but did not even cock an ear as I walked past. The place was eerie and gorgeous. Fantasies of hiding here for a week or two were only enticed when I looked into charming renovated homes and apartments available by the week or the month.
Next stop was the well known Wine Museum for DO Campo de Borja. The museum is part of the 12th century Monasterio de Veruela which is a site in and of itself. After a too rushed look at this beautiful testament to early grandeur I visited the museum. The theme is the Empire of Garnacha and is filled with the history (garnacha is originally from Aragon) and importance of the grape variety. The kids room features “Garnachica” who is the little grape that we follow from vine to bottle…..truly too cute!
A late lunch (yep, 4:00) finished the day with a long conversation with the chef about food and wine and the beauty of pairing the fresh, spicy garnacha wines with the local bounty. I had a deep sense of pleasure when I could not just explain in some detail and clarity my Old Vine Grenache Project but proudly ran to the car to pull out a bottle of the first finished product. Of course this new friend introduced me to some of the small, local growers and more insight into the garnacha grown and produced in Campo de Borja.
Marcona Almonds in Full Bloom
Little Patches Here and There
Again, the Old Agriculture and the New Power
Prehistoric Flora? No, Old Olive Trees for Sale
New Construction, Asian Influenced, Spanish Address
Shepherds in the Vineyard???
Yep! Keeping Down the Weeds!
Slopes Along the Huecha River
Welcome to Talamantes
No Need to Worry About Language…..Water
….and Electricity!
Just Waiting for New Owner! At the Foot of the Moncayo
Homes for Rent
Directional Signs for Hikers
And of Course, the Old Castello Overlooking the Town
