Eugenia Keegan

I have been in France for a number of days.  I am returning to places that are familiar as I stayed in these same places last fall.  Europe must sprinkle some naïve dust on my head because I made the arrogant assumption that everything would be exactly as I left it……waiting for my return.  Although it has been only six months the changes are startling.  Mostly in people’s lives as they are marching forward, growing their homes, businesses, families.  And perhaps some of the naivety is really just a refection of my own life where my surroundings, people, have stayed the same.  Some subtle changes can be seen in the country side as well where roads are repaved, safety barriers are up where there were none before, new houses being built. It is a treat to begin to know the area well enough such that these changes can be noticed.

But, the point I am trying to make here with the conversation about all of the changes….I was out of internet access for over a week!  It was weird.  These were places that had WIFI before and for one reason or another there was no access this trip.  On one hand I hated it and on the other it was very freeing.   Yikes, no facebook, no email, no twitter, and in my case not even a mobile.  Other than not being able to let David know that I had arrived safe and sound it was not much of a personal hardship, but for business it is immobilizing.

The days in Maury were spent working on vineyard selection, blends, and business arrangements for the future.  Frankly, this is damn hard.  The language is less of a barrier as my French is always improving but the business climate is restrictive and bureaucratic (I believe that the French invented this concept!).  The laws rarely make sense (to me, an American that is) in that they continually inhibit one’s ability to do business, but on the other hand if one understands that some fee or tax is to be levied, then it all becomes clear.  Find a way to add a charge to every act of commerce and you have the rule.

Having said that, the K2 project is well underway.  Oh yes, K2.  I have used this label from time to time for special projects and this project is a great candidate.  The KEEGAN CELLARS label will be reserved for wines that I make myself.  K2 will act somewhat like a negociant label.  The first K2 bottling will be from Roussillon.  There are many details to finalize and until they are final I will wait to reveal them.  Nothing like retractions and rewrites to frustrate everyone.  Most importantly it appears that I have found a solid partner.

The weather my first week was perfect.  Mornings were chilly and the right time to head out for a walk.  I soon recognized my fellow walkers, all men with little to do.  Those who did have something to do were in their gardens toiling tirelessly to bring tasty fruits and vegetables to the dining table.  And as always, the women had more than enough to do.  The afternoons were warm and breezy.  One such lovely day I headed out to the famous French landmark, the Château de Quéribus.  I had made an effort to visit this monument of high altitude living last fall, but that day was socked in with fog.  I started up the winding road until I could not see five feet in front of me.  I knew that to the right of me was a drop of no return and rather than take that “flight” I turned around.  After driving up there this trip I know how wise a decision that was.  Remember those guard rails I mentioned earlier?  Well, that crew has not made it to Roussillon!

A lengthy walk uphill to the castle was heart pumping, and well….ruins are ruins. I returned to my auto and started down the “back” side of the hill.  I was now in Corbières, Department of Aude, heading for the quaint village (I know, aren’t they all?) of Cucugnan.

Château de Quéribus

The next castle is Château de Peyrepertuse.  Again, an interesting ruin and reminder of the need to have one’s home as high up as possible so there was plenty of time to see the aggressor heading toward you.  Although visiting a couple of castles was the “reason” for the trip what took my by complete surprise were the unbelievable number of wildflowers.  I think I stopped taking photos after 45-50 different lovely delicate flowers.  I hope that there is a book with all of this abundance of beauty.  For now here are a couple of teasers:

And Finally, Château de Peyrepertuse

I should be apologizing repeatedly for not posting for ages, but something keeps me from getting this done (the posting, not the apologizing!). Not sure why. I am always pleased after I have chronicled what I am doing. But then there is this nagging sense that my days have no significance and this is egotistical bullcrap. Either way, I do enjoy it once I put my focus heretois*.

After working on the pruning videos I realized that the two styles of pruning shown were very useful and applied to many situations, but were not specific to the so-called premise of this exercise, Old Vine Grenache. The older bush pruned or spur pruned vines are fundamentally handled the same, but the look is very different. I asked my good friend (with whom I am having dinner this very evening….might be just the kick in the tuchus that I needed to post), if he would kindly help me demonstrate pruning for the style of growing common to most old vines (not just grenache).

Here is Jean-Marc Espinasse of Domaine Rouge-Bleu (http://rouge-bleu.com) with a demonstration of head/spur pruning in his outrageous Old Vine Grenache vineyard, Lunatique (the sound is a bit rough but the images are lovely; listen carefully for a first class pruning lesson):

*hertois: some knockoff of the legalese heretofore, heretowith, etc. But here, is is is.

Although the day was filled with treasured sentiment the evening was filled with good cheer.  Dominique invited a dozen or so friends and family from the area to her home and a celebration of everything important ensued.  Champagne flowed, loads of goodies made it to the table and we drank, laughed, chatted, and danced the evening away.  The courtyard held its own magic as the party moved from inside to out.  It was a lovely, soft Indian summer evening that lingered into the wee hours of the morning.  I even made my first official joke in French (yes, they laughed)!

My original plan had me leaving around 8 or 9 in the morning.  In fact I left after another superb lunch lovingly served by Myriam.  Roussillon calls.

The Aftermath

The First Sink Full

A Last Look

Friday was my final day working in the cave at Domaine de Cristia.  The winemaking experience was fantastic of course.  I was given every opportunity to observe the vineyards, their individual terroir, the fruit as it arrived to the cellar and then to work with the juice/wine over my ten days.  Baptiste and his father were incredibly helpful in explaining their methods and techniques (some of them very old world and some very modern) and Alain was ever ready to share with me his library of winemaking books and internet articles offering evidence of support for this decision or that.

Further, I was introduced to scores of winemakers from the area who also opened their cellars and their ideas for my further edification.  I not only felt a part of the winemaking community of CNdP but became increasing close to the Grangeon family.

Both of Dominique’s grandparents (her father’s father Etienne, and her mother’s mother Coulette) joined us for lunch and coffee on my final day.  When leaving to return to the cellar after lunch and taking a few extra moments to say my goodbyes I became overwhelmed with emotion.  In fact, I had to depart rather quickly rather than suffer a complete meltdown.   Etienne asked me to join him for a moment at his home (which is directly next door to the cave) on my return to work.  I did so and was again overtaken by emotion.  He showed me a decoration that he had put together for the millennium welcoming in the new century.  It consisted of a grapevine designed as a tree announcing the births of his children and grandchildren.  There was other memorabilia resting on the table creating a very personal display.  He then offered me a copy of a poem that he had written for the occasion.  It was titled the ‘four seasons’ and outlined for him the significance of each with respect to the growing of the vines.  His final words to me were, “my great passion in life is my vines, my great honor in life is that my children and grandchildren continue to work them”.  I tried to hide my falling tears as I returned to the cellar to continue his work.

Etienne Joseph Grangeon, "Papé"

Papé would ride his bike over several times a day to check up on us.  I always saved my sweetest kisses for him.

I have often been asked what I love about France and I have tried to put my finger on it all these years (this love affair started when I was around thirteen or fourteen and my mother introduced me to Colette).  I usually say something about tradition, love of the good life or maybe a more relaxed life (with food, wine, home, and hearth being the heart of this) but this trip I have come closer to understanding a part of French life that is most endearing.  There is a human element that is foremost in this culture. Each and every encounter must include some kind of physical gesture, a moment of personal intimacy if you will.  The most ritualized of course is the kiss(es) to the cheek. Regardless of socio-economic level there must be some kind of physical acknowledgment.  When Baptiste arrives at the vineyard to check on the pick for the day he greets each and every member of the crew (and this can be 20-25) with a handshake or the traditional cheek peck depending on how well he knows them.  The ladies of course all receive the trois bises of local custom.

I loved the early arrival each morning á la cave.  The feel was often early Autumn, sometimes late summer.  I started the work day with a round of bises that required one to seek out their work mates and in my case each of the “boys” in the cellar/vineyard, Baptiste, his father Alain, my co-worker Michel, Ahmed, etc. etc.   Three kisses is the tradition of southern Rhône, two in some areas and I found out that it is FOUR kisses for the Parisians……Michel is a Parisian!  The affectionate greeting sets a tone for the working relationship throughout the day.  I would love to try something like this in the states, but you can already see the mystified expression on everyone’s face!  Alors, one of the cultural idioms that must remain here at home in France.

Baptiste

Alain

Michel

Ahmed

Christian