Archive for 'Roussillon'

I have been in France for a number of days.  I am returning to places that are familiar as I stayed in these same places last fall.  Europe must sprinkle some naïve dust on my head because I made the arrogant assumption that everything would be exactly as I left it……waiting for my return.  Although it has been only six months the changes are startling.  Mostly in people’s lives as they are marching forward, growing their homes, businesses, families.  And perhaps some of the naivety is really just a refection of my own life where my surroundings, people, have stayed the same.  Some subtle changes can be seen in the country side as well where roads are repaved, safety barriers are up where there were none before, new houses being built. It is a treat to begin to know the area well enough such that these changes can be noticed.

But, the point I am trying to make here with the conversation about all of the changes….I was out of internet access for over a week!  It was weird.  These were places that had WIFI before and for one reason or another there was no access this trip.  On one hand I hated it and on the other it was very freeing.   Yikes, no facebook, no email, no twitter, and in my case not even a mobile.  Other than not being able to let David know that I had arrived safe and sound it was not much of a personal hardship, but for business it is immobilizing.

The days in Maury were spent working on vineyard selection, blends, and business arrangements for the future.  Frankly, this is damn hard.  The language is less of a barrier as my French is always improving but the business climate is restrictive and bureaucratic (I believe that the French invented this concept!).  The laws rarely make sense (to me, an American that is) in that they continually inhibit one’s ability to do business, but on the other hand if one understands that some fee or tax is to be levied, then it all becomes clear.  Find a way to add a charge to every act of commerce and you have the rule.

Having said that, the K2 project is well underway.  Oh yes, K2.  I have used this label from time to time for special projects and this project is a great candidate.  The KEEGAN CELLARS label will be reserved for wines that I make myself.  K2 will act somewhat like a negociant label.  The first K2 bottling will be from Roussillon.  There are many details to finalize and until they are final I will wait to reveal them.  Nothing like retractions and rewrites to frustrate everyone.  Most importantly it appears that I have found a solid partner.

The weather my first week was perfect.  Mornings were chilly and the right time to head out for a walk.  I soon recognized my fellow walkers, all men with little to do.  Those who did have something to do were in their gardens toiling tirelessly to bring tasty fruits and vegetables to the dining table.  And as always, the women had more than enough to do.  The afternoons were warm and breezy.  One such lovely day I headed out to the famous French landmark, the Château de Quéribus.  I had made an effort to visit this monument of high altitude living last fall, but that day was socked in with fog.  I started up the winding road until I could not see five feet in front of me.  I knew that to the right of me was a drop of no return and rather than take that “flight” I turned around.  After driving up there this trip I know how wise a decision that was.  Remember those guard rails I mentioned earlier?  Well, that crew has not made it to Roussillon!

A lengthy walk uphill to the castle was heart pumping, and well….ruins are ruins. I returned to my auto and started down the “back” side of the hill.  I was now in Corbières, Department of Aude, heading for the quaint village (I know, aren’t they all?) of Cucugnan.

Château de Quéribus

The next castle is Château de Peyrepertuse.  Again, an interesting ruin and reminder of the need to have one’s home as high up as possible so there was plenty of time to see the aggressor heading toward you.  Although visiting a couple of castles was the “reason” for the trip what took my by complete surprise were the unbelievable number of wildflowers.  I think I stopped taking photos after 45-50 different lovely delicate flowers.  I hope that there is a book with all of this abundance of beauty.  For now here are a couple of teasers:

And Finally, Château de Peyrepertuse

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I received an email from a dear friend with whom I have travelled to France on more than one occasion (including last spring).  Her French is very good, but she too is a bit timid launching into the language. However having said that, we ALWAYS called upon and counted on Dana whenever we needed something really important (like reservations at a three star restaurant or a famous wine estate).   She never let us down.

In her email she asked, “So, how’s your French?  Let me put it right out there that without any qualification:  My cellar French is exceptional!  As those words hardly work elsewhere, what happens outside the cellar?  What I have learned more than anything else is a level of confidence that allows me to openly bastardize this beautiful language without much shame.  I am over being timid.  In fact, recently when asked to repeat my order to a somewhat intoxicated hanger on at a small bar in Béziers I answered in French, “Just for you sir I will repeat myself very slowly.  This might help you (gesture here) understand”. My glass of wine and sandwich arrived promptly.

This is my last post from France for this trip.  My plane leaves in a couple of hours.  A post script from stateside is forthcoming.  Á tout á l’heure!

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Au Revoir Maury

My week in Maury was up and leaving was not an easy task.  I loved my apartment and from the looks of things I had truly made myself at home.  I had my few possessions strewn from room to room, one end to the other.  The time had come to say goodbye to the wonderful people who had allowed me into their homes and lives.  I had had plenty of time to investigate the Roussillon and made solid commitments to making wine here in 2011.  A return in spring is on the books.

Next up:  Languedoc.

Richard

Sarah (taken by Amy or Sasha)

Bob

Carrie

Liam

Tomás

dahdy and his girls

mummy and her girls

Last Night, Amy Is In Charge of the Camera

mummy and dahd, end of the day

A Final Quiet Moment....Again, Taken by Amy

Amy Goes Camera Crazy

AOC Maury

Of the several areas that are making a name for themselves Maury currently has the most momentum.  As mentioned the mairie of the town is very progressive and has made every effort to bring outside investment to the area.  Recognizing the ancient hillside vineyards as an asset he has aided development of not just winery related activities but is working hard to make Maury a food destination as well.  The town has financed a first class restaurant and visitor’s center.  We did not eat at the “Maison du Terroir” this time but David and I had a fabulous lunch there this past spring with Richard and Sara (and later daughter Amy who joined us after a short day at school).

My full day of “site” seeing in Maury was a foggy one and not the best for photos.  The valley is absolutely breath taking and the vineyard opportunities varied and exciting.

With Richard’s help I am making inroads into winemaking opportunities and look forward to a return trip this spring to “seal the deal” for a KEEGAN CELLARS 2011 Cuvée Maury.

Dry Today, But Just Wait!!!

Castle Quéribus Keeping Watch

AOC Maury

Looking Down onto the Maury Valley

Yes, Vines Grow in This

The Schist of Maury

Schist & Shout

Shifting Schist and Site Variation

The First of Many Great Dining Establishments

There are just too many great interactions to get them all into a blog.  But a day exploring Vingrau turned into a lot of fun.  For the most part I am drawn to an area by the vineyards but as you can tell, find other wonderful things to enchant and delight.  Vingrau is not far from Tautavel (both northeast of Maury and active parts of the winemaking community of the Roussillon…..I should probably have a map somewhere on this site!!??).   This village is smaller than Tautavel because it does not have “Tautavel Man” to bump up its cachet.

There were a number of lovely alleys and impasse to draw one in.   A front door with a CD disc nailed to it was a case in point.  I stopped, observed, thought it of interest, took a shot or two and was quickly startled by a youngish man with a mop of unruly black hair jabbing at my chest with a cigarette asking what the hell I thought I was doing.  “Taking a picture of a most unusual door knocker”, I said, pointing at the CD.  Turns out that he had something to do with that CD, to little personal avail and was plenty unhappy about it.  I heard the sad tale over a couple of glasses of rosé sitting in a waning October afternoon.

I also had a chance to visit Opoul which has a higher altitude than Tautavel or Vingrau and offers fruit with greater acidity and freshness.  It is also remarkable close to the Mediterranean.   This became important when visiting with the Castany family of Domaine de L’edre  (www.edre.fr)  a winery that is getting plenty of notice in the states (imported by Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections).  The wines are full throttle, but have some racy acidity from these higher elevation vineyard sites.  Don’t miss them if you can find them.

Just Another Front Yard

Just Around the Corner

More Delights

Native Succulent?

High Road to Opoul

The "Tractors" at Lunch

High Altitude Vines

TERROIR!

The Castany Family in Their Domaine

Jacques Castany, Vigneron

Le Heurtoir de la Porte

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