One of the challenges in exploring grenache in areas such as Roussillon and Languedoc is the amount of syrah that gets into the mix. Syrah is not one of the “native” varieties as is grenache, carignan, and cinsault. Syrah, grown widely and originally (as far as France is concerned) in the northern Rhône has become the darling of the government agency (INAO) that runs the appellation system. No one is quite certain how this all got started but now if a producer wants to use the AOC designation there must be, by law, a certain amount of syrah in the blend. The amount varies but as syrah is a pretty husky variety even 10% can overwhelm the more delicate aspects of grenache. A handful of purists actually choose at times to use a Vin de Pays classification rather than the AOC to allow them full control over the blend. One such purist is Claude EARL (and Isabelle FONQUERLE) from l’Oustal Blanc. I had the privilege of meeting with Claude one morning at his cellar in La Livinière. This is a smaller AOC inside Minervois and is quickly becoming renowned for quality.
Claude is famed for his focus on grenache, carignan, and his beloved cinsault. The cellar is old (1907) and immaculate. He uses a four step process to the extent that only whole berries, unbroken, and in pristine condition make it into his 50hl concrete cuves (or small barrels for his oldest, lowest yield lots). He removes the stems and indeed in his process he has two sorting tables, one that is used to remove any bits and pieces of stem that might get through the system. Each step along the way is designed to accentuate the pure fruit freshness, spiciness and varietal character of the grape. Knowing that I am a winemaker and specifically interested in grenache, he took me through his process step by step and was incredibly forthright in helping me understand what he has gathered from years of experience (he also worked ten years in Chateauneuf).
The visit was exhilarating.
OK….so where are the cool pictures? It had to happen one time and this might have been the worst time to push the wrong button and delete the file with the photos from this visit. Not the incredible line up of swear words, in both French and English, the fist banging, or the tears could make them materialize. I searched every nook and cranny in this damn box, but to no avail. I am told that nothing is truly gone from your hard drive. When I return home I will hand this computer over to a professional and see if that is correct and that these precious photos can be retrieved. My sincere apologies to Claude.
A beautiful afternoon on the Canal du Midi was also smited in my slight of hand.
It is true…the pictures were not gone. The “professional” turned out to be David who is pretty comfortable around computers…and to make matters even more embarrassing, the pictures were in the trash bin!! David did a minute of dumpster diving and here we are:
The Cellar, Established 1907
50 hl Cement Tanks
Receiving Bins
Antique Crane, Now Using Electricity
OVG Small Batch Fermentation
Small Batch Punch Down Device
Cinsault "Cake" Post Pressing
Claude Earl, Vigneron
