Eugenia Keegan

The single largest sub-region of the Languedoc is the Corbières.  David and I made a quick look around last spring with stops in Corbières-Boutenac (an AOC since 2005), and Minervois another sub-region (also an AOC).

My landlord and on this occasion host Malcolm, has lived in the area for many years.  His restaurant specialized in the local wines and his knowledge of the Corbières is extensive.  He kindly offered to show me some of his favorite spots.

Traffic interrupted the early portion of the plan (Malcolm’s chosen lunch spot) and we ended up having a simple but delicious meal in the town of Lezignan-Corbières that according to Malcolm is the “seat” of the Corbières region.  I had my first entrecôte et frites of the trip.  The meat was perfectly cooked, juicy, and tender.  Malcolm had the magret (duck breast) and as he cleaned his plate without even a leftover for his four legged companion Penny, you can believe that it was a savory delight.

Fully fed, we headed to the Castle of Boutenac, now a regional center for information and events that focus on the viticultural importance of the area.  David and I had visited here last spring as well as the small town across the autoroute of Luc-sur-Obieu where we enjoyed a meal that I can still deliciously describe.  It was a heartwarming moment to realize that just five months ago we had sat together in this very courtyard talking about future plans that have morphed into what I am doing now.  We had just experienced an incredible weekend in the greater Chateauneuf region with dear friends and were then beginning our exploration of the Languedoc-Roussillon region and had yet to work our way through Spain and the grenache centric regions of Priorat and Montsant.  What a difference a day makes (or in my case a year as I am celebrating the one year anniversary of the sale of my distribution company!).

From the castle (where Malcolm left an incredible gift of an older bottle of wine for their museum) we headed into the town of Boutenac to our destination at Château La Voulte-Gasparets.   Madame answered the door and greeted us warmly as we stepped into the cool cellar and out of the mid-day sunlight.  Here again, Malcolm brought a special 20 year old bottling for the domaine.  Madame was frankly a bit beside herself and seemed almost unsure, but thoroughly warmed, with cet cadeau.  We tasted their two current red wine releases and Malcolm prompted a visit to their adjacent barrel chai. There is a new generation taking over the family estate and it shows.  The approach is modern with clear respect for the past.

We next stopped at Château Aiguilloux.  Another small family owned estate that one would not find without a guide.  Sadly, they were not available to see us.  A somewhat lengthily, but hastily written penciled note explained that “I” , the proprietor was malade and off to the doctor. We weren’t the only ones disappointed as a couple from Germany drove up just as we were leaving.  Once again, Malcolm left an older bottle from his cellar as a gift (and I understand that he received word back and not surprisingly a hearty thank you!).

We wound our way along the D611 with vineyards rising softly along both sides of the road.  We turned into a charming older domaine, Château Gléon-Montanié.   A younger man, full of purpose, indicated an older gentlemen (no doubt his father) when we inquired about une dégustation.   The senior member of the family was on the phone having a spirited conversation.  The dogs made certain that we were entertained as we waited.  The wait was worth every minute as Jean-Pierre Montanié graciously hosted us for a tasting.  He was a treat for me because he spoke crisp French, slowed to my less than fluent ears.  Naturally, the conversation was delightful.  He seemed very up to date with places like Oregon and what was happening in the American wine industry.  It was clear that he had a mind for business.

We headed leisurely home.

At Château La Voulte-Gasparets (photo by Malcolm Reynard)

Château Aiguilloux

Old Well at Château Aiguilloux

Château Gléon-Montanié

The Gracious Jean-Pierre Montanié

Gorgeous Silk Tapestry Sown by J-P M's Aunt

The Languedoc is one of the oldest settled areas of France.  The Greeks were early traders (7^th century BC) bringing the original grape vines to the area. A conflict between Celtic tribes (who had been migrating over time) and the local inhabitants of Marseille prompted a call to the Romans to settle the dispute.   They arrived around 100 BC and ruled for 500 years (careful what you ask for!!??).  Unlike the Greeks who were traders, the Romans moved to the area as colonists and finally residents.  The period of Roman oversight was one of prosperity and peace.  The agriculture of the region thrived and wine estates were wide spread, often extensive and wealthy households.   By early 400 AD the Visigoths started their invasive sweep southward after noting that the Romans were losing a hold on their vast territories. Once the administration of commerce broke down with the scattered fiefdoms and territories so went the prosperity.  The once wealthy wine industry disintegrated as chaos became the norm.

The early 20^th century witnessed a short burst of prosperity return to the Languedoc.  The phylloxera louse was “gifted” by well meaning botanists who sent grape “parts” to their colleagues in France.  Up to 40% of the French vineyards failed over a 15 year period of time.  Once the cause was discovered, and after other proposed solutions were tried, French scion wood was grafted onto resistant American rootstock.  (This is not quite that simple but here is not the place for a full length dissertation on phylloxera…,besides, it has no doubt been done!).  Because the pestilence started in the Languedoc they were the first to replant and had a head start on other grape growing regions of France.  Once Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, etc. were replanted and thriving the attention of the wine world moved away from the Languedoc.

Neither economic standard has yet to be achieved again, although from what I see now I think that the Languedoc and the Roussillon will be the wine story of the 21^st century. The sunny weather and proximately to the seas (both Atlantic and Mediterranean) allow for long leisurely ripening.  The harvest here is just finishing up. Mornings are cool and crisp.  The sun warms the afternoons to a lovely 23 degrees.  Add to this unspoiled beauty, diversity of food and wine and a variety of locations to fulfill individual likes and dislikes.

Sun and food are always on my mind, but a primary point of my research continues to be the search for that perfect piece of  ground that has nurtured old vines for decades and sparingly offers bunches of grenache and possibly carignan fit for loving vinification and bottling.  As my experience and knowledge grow I continue to work on the current OVG project and am now working on finding a location in the Languedoc for winemaking 2011.  The viticultural area referred to as the Languedoc is very large and this search will take some time (quelle damage!). I am taking the sub-regions one at a time.

Thanks Kobrand for Your Maps!

My week in Maury was up and leaving was not an easy task.  I loved my apartment and from the looks of things I had truly made myself at home.  I had my few possessions strewn from room to room, one end to the other.  The time had come to say goodbye to the wonderful people who had allowed me into their homes and lives.  I had had plenty of time to investigate the Roussillon and made solid commitments to making wine here in 2011.  A return in spring is on the books.

Next up:  Languedoc.

Richard

Sarah (taken by Amy or Sasha)

Bob

Carrie

Liam

Tomás

dahdy and his girls

mummy and her girls

Last Night, Amy Is In Charge of the Camera

mummy and dahd, end of the day

A Final Quiet Moment....Again, Taken by Amy

Amy Goes Camera Crazy

Of the several areas that are making a name for themselves Maury currently has the most momentum.  As mentioned the mairie of the town is very progressive and has made every effort to bring outside investment to the area.  Recognizing the ancient hillside vineyards as an asset he has aided development of not just winery related activities but is working hard to make Maury a food destination as well.  The town has financed a first class restaurant and visitor’s center.  We did not eat at the “Maison du Terroir” this time but David and I had a fabulous lunch there this past spring with Richard and Sara (and later daughter Amy who joined us after a short day at school).

My full day of “site” seeing in Maury was a foggy one and not the best for photos.  The valley is absolutely breath taking and the vineyard opportunities varied and exciting.

With Richard’s help I am making inroads into winemaking opportunities and look forward to a return trip this spring to “seal the deal” for a KEEGAN CELLARS 2011 Cuvée Maury.

Dry Today, But Just Wait!!!

Castle Quéribus Keeping Watch

AOC Maury

Looking Down onto the Maury Valley

Yes, Vines Grow in This

The Schist of Maury

Schist & Shout

Shifting Schist and Site Variation

The First of Many Great Dining Establishments

There are just too many great interactions to get them all into a blog.  But a day exploring Vingrau turned into a lot of fun.  For the most part I am drawn to an area by the vineyards but as you can tell, find other wonderful things to enchant and delight.  Vingrau is not far from Tautavel (both northeast of Maury and active parts of the winemaking community of the Roussillon…..I should probably have a map somewhere on this site!!??).   This village is smaller than Tautavel because it does not have “Tautavel Man” to bump up its cachet.

There were a number of lovely alleys and impasse to draw one in.   A front door with a CD disc nailed to it was a case in point.  I stopped, observed, thought it of interest, took a shot or two and was quickly startled by a youngish man with a mop of unruly black hair jabbing at my chest with a cigarette asking what the hell I thought I was doing.  “Taking a picture of a most unusual door knocker”, I said, pointing at the CD.  Turns out that he had something to do with that CD, to little personal avail and was plenty unhappy about it.  I heard the sad tale over a couple of glasses of rosé sitting in a waning October afternoon.

I also had a chance to visit Opoul which has a higher altitude than Tautavel or Vingrau and offers fruit with greater acidity and freshness.  It is also remarkable close to the Mediterranean.   This became important when visiting with the Castany family of Domaine de L’edre  (www.edre.fr)  a winery that is getting plenty of notice in the states (imported by Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections).  The wines are full throttle, but have some racy acidity from these higher elevation vineyard sites.  Don’t miss them if you can find them.

Just Another Front Yard

Just Around the Corner

More Delights

Native Succulent?

High Road to Opoul

The "Tractors" at Lunch

High Altitude Vines

TERROIR!

The Castany Family in Their Domaine

Jacques Castany, Vigneron

Le Heurtoir de la Porte