Eugenia Keegan

One of the challenges in exploring grenache in areas such as Roussillon and Languedoc is the amount of syrah that gets into the mix.  Syrah is not one of the “native” varieties as is grenache, carignan, and cinsault.  Syrah, grown widely and originally (as far as France is concerned) in the northern Rhône has become the darling of the government agency (INAO) that runs the appellation system.  No one is quite certain how this all got started but now if a producer wants to use the AOC designation there must be, by law, a certain amount of syrah in the blend.  The amount varies but as syrah is a pretty husky variety even 10% can overwhelm the more delicate aspects of grenache.  A handful of purists actually choose at times to use a Vin de Pays classification rather than the AOC to allow them full control over the blend.  One such purist is Claude EARL (and Isabelle FONQUERLE) from l’Oustal Blanc.  I had the privilege of meeting with Claude one morning at his cellar in La Livinière.  This is a smaller AOC inside Minervois and is quickly becoming renowned for quality.

Claude is famed for his focus on grenache, carignan, and his beloved cinsault.  The cellar is old (1907) and immaculate.  He uses a four step process to the extent that only whole berries, unbroken, and in pristine condition make it into his 50hl concrete cuves (or small barrels for his oldest, lowest yield lots).  He removes the stems and indeed in his process he has two sorting tables, one that is used to remove any bits and pieces of stem that might get through the system.  Each step along the way is designed to accentuate the pure fruit freshness, spiciness and varietal character of the grape.  Knowing that I am a winemaker and specifically interested in grenache, he took me through his process step by step and was incredibly forthright in helping me understand what he has gathered from years of experience (he also worked ten years in Chateauneuf).

The visit was exhilarating.

OK….so where are the cool pictures?  It had to happen one time and this might have been the worst time to push the wrong button and delete the file with the photos from this visit.  Not the incredible line up of swear words, in both French and English, the fist banging, or the tears could make them materialize.  I searched every nook and cranny in this damn box, but to no avail.  I am told that nothing is truly gone from your hard drive.  When I return home I will hand this computer over to a professional and see if that is correct and that these precious photos can be retrieved.  My sincere apologies to Claude.

A beautiful afternoon on the Canal du Midi was also smited in my slight of hand.

It is true…the pictures were not gone.  The “professional” turned out to be David who is pretty comfortable around computers…and to make matters even more embarrassing, the pictures were in the trash bin!!  David did a minute of dumpster diving and here we are:

The Cellar, Established 1907

50 hl Cement Tanks

Receiving Bins

Antique Crane, Now Using Electricity

OVG Small Batch Fermentation

Small Batch Punch Down Device

Cinsault "Cake" Post Pressing

Claude Earl, Vigneron

I drove through the town of St. Chinian one afternoon rather late.  I stopped and cannot remember exactly why.  Possibly I needed un café, money, or some such item that seems to infuse the day (today it was toilet paper and water!).  I know that the light was seductive and the wind was blowing voraciously as leaves swirled around my feet.  I realized somewhat later that this town was very inviting and made a point to return.  I did so some days later and found a not unsimilar afternoon.  I needed a coffee, money, the sun was setting, the wind was blowing but the temperature had dropped precipitously.  I found my way into a small bar that turned out to be THE place.  The local vigneron wondered in two by three and shortly the brisk out of doors had moved inside and was warm and full of conversation both in English and French.  There was some intermingling and finally I ended up chatting with two couples from Australia that could not have been more engaging. They were totally into food and wine and were hooked up with the winemaker from Giaconda (a superb Aussie winery) who has an apartment in St. Chinian.

There happens to be an incredible wine shop here as well.

Before blowing off the whole evening I took a couple of photos.

Town Center

The Grounds of the Mairie

The Mairie

The Photo is the Caption

The appellation St. Chinian was established in 1982.  This is old relative to the history of AOCs in the Languedoc.  There are 20 villages that make up the appellation which sits at the foot of the Massif Central.  Although it is one appellation the truth is that there are as many hills and valleys and mesoclimates as there villages.  Some of the vineyard sites here are spectacular with gentle SE facing slopes, protection from the howling winds, and soils of a rocky clay mix.  Only a full analysis of the twenty villages would do this area justice.

The River l'Orb

The River As Influence

One of Twenty

AOC St. Chinian

Beautiful Sites

Vast Valleys

Participating Sunlight

Another of the Villages

Yet Another Village

Our Saturday luncheon took place in the courtyard in front of l’eglise Saint-Jacques.   I am not absolutely clear on the history of this small church.  I can tell you that it is quite beautiful.  There are references to some kind of holy site here as early as 900 AD.  Clearly some parts of this building were built/renovated in the 11^th and 12^th centuries.  I am seeing some sources that are linking this church to St. Jacques who seems to have roamed a great deal of the French/Spanish countryside and now has a long route named after him (in France called chemin de St-Jacques).  David and I have seen many people walking/biking this route.  Some of it is quite lovely and rural, other parts run “right through town”.  Whether or not the famous St. Jacques passed through this exact location I cannot be sure.  Mass is held weekly on Tuesday evenings.

Coquille St. Jacques!?

A Quiet Corner

Blue Light

Church Statue Overlooking City Below

Last spring while enjoying a beautiful day in Vaison-la-Romaine I turned a corner and noticed a number of tables and chairs set up for what looked like a banquet luncheon.  A group of women were putting out baskets with the typical picnic fare of des sauscisses, du pain, du fromage et du vin. Others began to arrive, some with baskets of additional items or even more of the same.  I was a bit baffled at first but insight came quickly as I read the sign hanging in the shop windows on that block…it was indeed a “block party”.  Not sure now what they called it, but clearly the neighborhood was gathering for a midday meal.

According to Malcolm this is not unusual and is in fact part of neighborhood life in France.  It happened that his quartier was having just such a gathering on Saturday.  It was billed as a “sardinade” as the theme was sardines.  A large drum was retooled to be a BBQ and not long after the noon bell the Q was fired up and the sardines were grilling.

We were joined by friends of Malcolm’s, Lesly and Geoff.  We each brought some extra goodies along and plenty of vino and set up around the square of tables as did the other neighbors.  The day was very windy and the temperature hovered around 12 degrees (<54 degrees F).  It was chilly indeed and lavish helpings of wine seemed the only rational defense.

Even the sardines went down well with the wine of the day.

Our Chef

The Neighbors

More Neighbors

Our Table Mates

Geoff, Lesly, and Malcolm

Leslie Sharing Her Delicious Cake