Eugenia Keegan

The small town of Maury is caught somewhere between its ancient past and a windfall of wine money that is sweeping it optimistically into the 21^st century.  The town consists of one main street (the D 117) that runs through the town and doubles as the largest, no toll thoroughfare between Perpignan and the coast……..In other words, it is active.  The one and only café is located there, and it is exactly that spot where I found Richard last Saturday.

I am two minutes á pied from the center of town.  It really is a sad one.  There is an epicerie, boulangerie, and the mairie is pretty new, but that is about it.  The charcuterie has closed, there is no bank, but there is either a vision of tomorrow or a kitschy, but cute trompe d’oeil nod to a mini renaissance.  I have been told that the mairie of this town is very progressive and really wants to acknowledge the natural gifts of the area AND trade them cautiously for increased affluence and an improved standard of living.  It appears to be going reasonably well.

Boulangerie

Centre Ville

Saturday Market

"The Flower Shop"

"Bienvenue"

A dark and ominous storm gathered as I headed south.  I thought that finding Maury would be simple as there HAD to be a sign for the town along the autoroute.  But no, so I pulled off the road around some town names that I did know.  Of all people I should NEVER travel without a map as I have no sense of direction.  The sun helps of course….but first she must be out.  (Another friend who suffers from this problem calls it “directionally dyslexic”.  Since I am dyslexic in writing and speaking it all adds up.)  I did indeed have a map so finally pulled myself over and dug it out of my suitcase.  Wow, it cleared things up right away, imagine that!

My contacts here are Richard and Sarah Case.  Both are English but as winemaking was the chosen field for Richard, France was a natural.  Richard was making small lots of Old Vine Grenache and Old Vine Carignan in his basement…a humble facility at best.  The Vallé d’Agly was soon discovered for its plentiful hillsides of OVG and OVC.  These grapes had been going into Vin Doux Natural but it did not take long for winemakers from other areas/countries to see the gold hanging on these slopes.  Richard is now making his wine and wine for several others in an absolutely perfect winemaking facility designed and built by Dave Finney of Orin Swift/Prisoner fame (who has made a sizable investment in vineyards and the winemaking facility).

Richard and I had agreed by email that I would either come by the winery or call him on his cell, depending on the time of arrival.  I like to hone in a bit on my destination first….get the lay of the land.  I arrived in Maury around 6:30 and as I drove through its main street I passed the local pub.  I was immediately at home as I saw Richard (he is very tall) and a group relaxing over a beer.  I considered this a very good sign of days to come.

Turns out he was hanging with his associate Bob (also English), and Brian (and his cousin Pete) from Napa Valley.  Brian works with Dave (and Pete was just on vacation) and was here for the launch of the harvest.  A few beers later we were off to a party in Tautavel.  I completely blew it here as I did not have my camera.  I am not used to documenting my life and have never used a camera so it is not second nature.  I tried to get a few pictures of the party with Richard’s iphone, but…..

In any case please picture an old cellar but thoroughly renewed, with a long table with over 200 wines and a food table at one end where shortly two lambs were being sliced for our dining pleasure.  Dozens of winemakers from the area were here to kick off harvest with what is apparently an annual get together.  I was surprised to run into a few people I knew and of course there were many winemaking connections from both France and the rest of the grape community.  This was grand start to the week!

Although I missed a handful of party shots, I can share some of the beauty and charm of Maury.

The Local Hollywood Sign

The Local Cemetery

The Hills Slowly Close In

Magestic Risings

To the North

Greetings and Welcome to my blog, currently titled The Old Vine Grenache Project.  This is the official launch of my new business,  which includes moving my winemaking to France.  The typical response from family, friends, and colleagues when I share  this new and unusual direction is, “you must blog this!”.  No, I don’t always listen to what others tell me, but this time the idea made some sense.

Of course, I am very nervous as this is my first time.  And you can only experience the first time once….so better make the best of it.  I think that you know what I mean.

So, now that we have….ah…..broken the……ah, ice, let’s get going!

My plane leaves today Sunday the 19th so last night was the official family last supper.  Saturday morning was overcast but not raining……yet (it happens that we are still trying to ripen grapes in the Willamette Valley so this rain stuff is NO fun!).  Off to the farmer’s market to shop for the big meal.

The Vegetable Course

Peter Piper Picked a Peck........

Purple Cauliflower??

And of course, 'des fleurs' for the table

This and more resulted in a lavish multi-course meal.  There was concern that we had not planned for dessert.  That was the best decision of the day!  Here is the final menu:

The Last Supper....for now!

I am on the red eye to Chicago, then to Dulles, then to Paris, then to Avignon, then to CNdP.  Will return as soon I can get set up in France.

For now, I am off and running….let’s see, do the laundry, pack, learn to speak French….