Eugenia Keegan

I love white wines.  From a strictly winemaking point of view I think that making white wine is perhaps the most challenging….OK, you know what I mean…making REALLY GOOD white wine.  My hand’s on experience is with full throttle “Burgundian” style chardonnay from California’s Russian River and Knight’s Valleys.  (By “Burgundian” I mean wines made with techniques borrowed from the original chardonnay greats of Burgundy.) Grapes grown in these two Sonoma County appellations are from relatively cooler climates (within Northern California), grapes that are historically picked a bit later (in particular Knight’s Valley in late October), with livelier acidity, and in addition to the fruit a mineral quality that adds up to something special.  California chardonnay has been beaten up badly over the past five to ten years and for good reason.  BUT, there are examples that can share an honorable table with any.

Having said that, my tastes have migrated over the years (thank you David!) to the fully mature fruit driven wine that never slips into a barrel, but forever must wear its ripe varietal character.  These are whites that are crisp and alive.  They are hard to find because frankly there is limited economic potential for this style and for the most part they are best enjoyed in their youth.  An interest in grape varieties that excel in this straight forward style lead us to a trip to north west Spain in spring 2009 that was a research project in Spanish white varieties. Included were Albariño, Godello, Hondarrabi Zuri (the sensational crisp, low alcohol, slightly spritzy wine from the Basque Country), Verdejo, Viura, and more.

This is all a lead up to picpoul.  Piquepoul or picpoul is the name of the grape and Picpoul de Pinet is the name of the appellation that is the lead statement for this variety.  The appellation is part of the Languedoc but closer in proximately to the Mediterranean.  Surprisingly soils are not just sand, but  include lots of rocks on many sites.  The garrigue has its own personality.  The name picpoul means “stinging lips” as a reference to the high acidity. The wines live up to this lively, vivacious style; loads of acid, rich in texture.  Only a handful make it into the states.  There is one Picpoul made in the USA as far as I know and that is from McCrea in Washington State.  I have not tasted it.

Sunday seemed like the perfect day for picpoul and some seaside, fishy experience.  I set out with the idea of heading to the sea for lunch and then “back around” to the appellation.  It happened just the opposite.   Lunch in Pézenas was absolutely out of this world.  Thankfully one can diet when they die. I started with a breast of chicken smothered in a sauce of fois gras.  This is not so unusual here, but still feels like the ultimate savory indulgence.   As if this were not enough I had to ask (just because I can!) for une petite assiette de fromage (small plate of cheese).   Then, and only because it was Sunday I insisted on a dessert that included chocolate.   You can see for yourself the multi layered chocolate/mousse/custard/ cake that I devoured….oh, did I mention that it was swimming in a pool of crème anglaise??

And of course, this discourse was washed down with a lovely, dry, bright, palate cleansing 2009 Picpoul.

The afternoon was spent wandering through the vineyards of the appellation ending in a visit with St. Martin de la Garrigue , an old favorite.

Then I made it to the sea.

Leaving Béziers

At the Restaurant (no, I did not consume these!)

Delicious! (yes, I did consume this!)

St. Martin de la Garrigue

Local Garrigue, Very Aromatic!

Plenty of Rocks

Sandy Limestone

Picpoul Vineyard Near St. Martin

Sunday Foragers

I drove through the town of St. Chinian one afternoon rather late.  I stopped and cannot remember exactly why.  Possibly I needed un café, money, or some such item that seems to infuse the day (today it was toilet paper and water!).  I know that the light was seductive and the wind was blowing voraciously as leaves swirled around my feet.  I realized somewhat later that this town was very inviting and made a point to return.  I did so some days later and found a not unsimilar afternoon.  I needed a coffee, money, the sun was setting, the wind was blowing but the temperature had dropped precipitously.  I found my way into a small bar that turned out to be THE place.  The local vigneron wondered in two by three and shortly the brisk out of doors had moved inside and was warm and full of conversation both in English and French.  There was some intermingling and finally I ended up chatting with two couples from Australia that could not have been more engaging. They were totally into food and wine and were hooked up with the winemaker from Giaconda (a superb Aussie winery) who has an apartment in St. Chinian.

There happens to be an incredible wine shop here as well.

Before blowing off the whole evening I took a couple of photos.

Town Center

The Grounds of the Mairie

The Mairie

The Photo is the Caption

The appellation St. Chinian was established in 1982.  This is old relative to the history of AOCs in the Languedoc.  There are 20 villages that make up the appellation which sits at the foot of the Massif Central.  Although it is one appellation the truth is that there are as many hills and valleys and mesoclimates as there villages.  Some of the vineyard sites here are spectacular with gentle SE facing slopes, protection from the howling winds, and soils of a rocky clay mix.  Only a full analysis of the twenty villages would do this area justice.

The River l'Orb

The River As Influence

One of Twenty

AOC St. Chinian

Beautiful Sites

Vast Valleys

Participating Sunlight

Another of the Villages

Yet Another Village

Our Saturday luncheon took place in the courtyard in front of l’eglise Saint-Jacques.   I am not absolutely clear on the history of this small church.  I can tell you that it is quite beautiful.  There are references to some kind of holy site here as early as 900 AD.  Clearly some parts of this building were built/renovated in the 11^th and 12^th centuries.  I am seeing some sources that are linking this church to St. Jacques who seems to have roamed a great deal of the French/Spanish countryside and now has a long route named after him (in France called chemin de St-Jacques).  David and I have seen many people walking/biking this route.  Some of it is quite lovely and rural, other parts run “right through town”.  Whether or not the famous St. Jacques passed through this exact location I cannot be sure.  Mass is held weekly on Tuesday evenings.

Coquille St. Jacques!?

A Quiet Corner

Blue Light

Church Statue Overlooking City Below

Last spring while enjoying a beautiful day in Vaison-la-Romaine I turned a corner and noticed a number of tables and chairs set up for what looked like a banquet luncheon.  A group of women were putting out baskets with the typical picnic fare of des sauscisses, du pain, du fromage et du vin. Others began to arrive, some with baskets of additional items or even more of the same.  I was a bit baffled at first but insight came quickly as I read the sign hanging in the shop windows on that block…it was indeed a “block party”.  Not sure now what they called it, but clearly the neighborhood was gathering for a midday meal.

According to Malcolm this is not unusual and is in fact part of neighborhood life in France.  It happened that his quartier was having just such a gathering on Saturday.  It was billed as a “sardinade” as the theme was sardines.  A large drum was retooled to be a BBQ and not long after the noon bell the Q was fired up and the sardines were grilling.

We were joined by friends of Malcolm’s, Lesly and Geoff.  We each brought some extra goodies along and plenty of vino and set up around the square of tables as did the other neighbors.  The day was very windy and the temperature hovered around 12 degrees (<54 degrees F).  It was chilly indeed and lavish helpings of wine seemed the only rational defense.

Even the sardines went down well with the wine of the day.

Our Chef

The Neighbors

More Neighbors

Our Table Mates

Geoff, Lesly, and Malcolm

Leslie Sharing Her Delicious Cake