Archive for 'France'

It was time to head back to France and prepare for my return home.  This is always a bittersweet moment as I LOVE to be at home, and yet I LOVE to be in Europe.

My final day was to be spent with my wonderful French family, the Grangeons.  Of course Myriam invited me to lunch which is always so delicious and so en famille.

So I spent my last day exploring the AOC Banyuls/AC Collioure.  These wines are also made primarily from old vine grenache.  Banyuls is the sweet version, Collioure the dry.  We don’t see much Collioure in the states….but maybe, just maybe I should try to change that.  There is an incredible amount of acreage still supporting the old vines, and as usual on extreme slopes.

It doesn’t hurt that the area is near the town of Collioure which is absolutely off the charts lovely.  I guarantee that I will be staying there again SOON.  Truly heaven on earth.

New Territory?

In Sight of the Sea

South View of Collioure, Castle Above

Looking Northwest

Entering Town from the South

Climbing Along the Sea Wall

Art Along the Sea Wall

View from the Cafe, Final Evening, Final Glass of Rosé

Tags: , , , ,

It’s the new year and time to climb out from under the proverbial rock and start sprouting some buds (you can just smell spring can’t  you?).  Thankfully, with all the heavy equipment available it is now possible to build a full life under that rock so lots of great things have been going on preparing for the next stage of this journey.  But before we discuss the future…..

OMG, I just looked at my blog and now realize that my last post was before harvest!   Of course there was a trip to France for vendange.  With the Oregon harvest so late and Europe’s so early, it was a great year for Oregonians to head to Burgundy to rekindle old friendships and check out what the French have been doing.  The opportunity segued perfectly into my harvest trip so David and I left on the last day of August and had a couple of perfect weeks to assess firsthand the 2011 French harvest.  We started in Champagne, through Burgundy, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and finally in Maury, Roussillon.

In fact the harvest did not start quite as early as feared because July was cool and wet.  This pushed the ripening back certainly two and up to three weeks.  It also increased the threat of botrytis rot as the rains continued throughout the month.  We did see a lot of that, and as expected some wineries were more aggressive about culling in the vineyard, and in the winery as clusters were dumped onto sorting tables.

Harvest on the Côte des Blancs

Dumping Pinot Noir Fruit at Domaine Drouhin in Burgundy

Sorting Fruit at Domaine Drouhin

I then put David on an airplane for the east coast of the US.  We had to switch his city of departure to follow up on a business meeting in Champagne, which gave us a free day on the way to Paris.  What better way to enjoy a quiet weekday than in the gardens of Giverny.

First Things First: Lunch

And Then a Stroll Through the Gardens

We arrived at Charles de Gaulle airport late so I opened the door and booted David out of the car and raced back to Chateauneuf-du-Pape to work a week in the cellars of Domaine de Cristia.  Michel from Paris returned for crush and we enjoyed the addition of a young intern from Alsace, (we are pictured together on my twitter profile, @grenachegal).  From there I headed back to Maury to harvest with Jean-Roger and Marie Calvet.  I can’t believe that there are not a bunch of pictures (maybe I was working??) but in fact most of the camera work was a camcorder.  The video is in production.

We brought the last fruit in on the 7th of October and I returned home.  Harvest in Oregon was still two weeks away so there is absolutely no excuse for why I did not open ALL of my mail that had been delivered while I was away.  So I was more than a bit stunned when I finally opened what I thought was some routine notice from the company that managed the rental of my home in Napa.  Ahhhh, my tenant had given notice on the first of October and in a week the house was mine again.  He had lived there four years to the day and was mostly a dream.  I had made the decision to sell the house and headed down to Napa at my first opportunity to view the property.  The inside of the house, which is rather fragile (all wood and glass) was in absolutely immaculate shape.  The outside, not so much.

We loaded up a van with furniture and artwork, all originally from the house (and living either with us or with friends) and had a harrowing ride from Portland to Napa through snow and sleet.  We arrived in the wee hours of the morning but were up early and had the house staged by mid day.  After a couple of days of work on the exterior (David is mean with a power washer!) David headed home and I continued to labor.  After a couple of additional trips down the house was ready for its first of two open houses on the 6th and 8th of December.  We received offers each day, were in escrow by the 12th and closed on the 6th of January.  Yep, that fast.  I had thought it would take four to six months.  The house is very special, but small, not for a family and does not appeal to everyone.  On the other hand it is an architectural designed house of glass and redwood and is snuggled amongst dozens of oaks on a knoll overlooking the Napa Valley on a small piece of heaven.  It is probably best that it happened this way hoping that it was less painful (I am thinking of that swift removal of the bandaid).  I made my final trip (five round trips by car in six weeks!!) down the week between Xmas and New Years.  The house is famous for its ability to throw a party so that seemed the logical conclusion to twenty years of loveliness.  These gatherings were a tad different since I had almost nothing for entertaining.  They quickly became BYOP parties….that is bring your own plate….and silverware, and napkin, and wine glass……    The result was an array of eclectic table settings adding a festive feel.  We partied straight on through to the morning of the First.  My brother and nephew arrived around 8:30, we loaded the van and off we headed, back to Oregon.  Tears were streaming down my cheeks as I said goodbye to my beloved tree house.

Southwest Corner of the Greatroom

December Sunset Back Deck

From there, it has been full court press on…….yes, the Old Vine Grenache Project.    Label is done, biz cards are printed, facebook page is happening.  The website is a ways off.

Saturday we are off to northern Europe working on distribution opportunities for Adelsheim Vineyard and then to Prowein, the largest wine trade show in the world.  Then I am off to Maury to put the first wine in the bottle.  Wine always takes so long from idea to glass but somehow the day arrives and mine is right around the corner!  YIPPEE!

Front Label

Back Label

After the bottling in Maury I will head south to Spain to search for more grape sources in the famed old vine grenache growing area of Navarra, Campo de Borja, and Monstant/Priorat.  Should be fun.

Tags: , , ,

Well, we have been through this before. Somehow my adventures in France seem well, just like adventures. My life at home just seems like life. People routinely remind me that what I am doing is very cool, and fun, and of interest, and then when I am reminded to get to the blog so much has transpired that I am much too far behind to “catch up”. So, who the hell cares that every moment is accounted for and that it is all in chronological order? ME, that’s who. I will now get over myself and get back to blogging!

This is a most odd year in grape growing. Getting tired of hearing that? This is the earliest year in recorded history in France and the latest year in recorded history in Oregon…..yes, later than last year, the epic late year of 2010. Good news for me is that I can be present for both my French harvest and back in time to participate in the Oregon harvest.

Bloom in France was complete by the middle of May (yes, including Bordeaux). At that time the vines in Oregon were just waking up. Bloom in Oregon started around the first of July.

Bloom, July 7, 2011 in the Heart of the Willamette Valley

And after an extensive vineyard “tour” with old friends around a remarkable series of vineyards in Eola-Amity and Carlton, there is still some bloom in action in the higher altitude sites (July 26/27, 2011).  Here are a couple of the more spectacular views from these sites:

Carlton Hills

Eola-Amity

Additional Vineyard Beauty Contributed by Man

Additional Beauty Contributed by Mother Nature

My Pal Brock Downloading Weather Data

Tags: , , , , ,

The sun burst in the room early…..I know this only because breakfast service started at 7:00 and I could not smell the usual signs:  fresh coffee and toast.  I turned over and wasted an hour in dream land.  I was at breakfast by 8:00, enjoyed a final walk along the lakefront, and was on the road by 10:00.  The day was spectacular, spring on full display.

I had picked my route; due south through the spa town of Aix-les-Thermes and onto the foothills of the Pyrenees.  I am not a skier so am not familiar with the hot spots of the sport, but I can imagine that this area is robust during the winter months.  I wound my way through one small Alpine village after another.  I could have been in Switzerland and indeed expected to see the Von Trapp family traipsing over the hill at any minute.

I finally could not contain myself and while crossing a somewhat new bridge with a running brook on one side and a leisurely lake spread to the other I pulled over to stop, gaze, wonder, and take a photo or two.  I stepped out of the car, and no it wasn’t Mary Poppins herself, but indeed the music of the famous cow bells.  I glanced up and sure enough cows were grazing with their bells echoing off the surrounding hills.  There was not a cloud in the sky or another human being on the road to disturb the minute of quiet and contemplation.

Back in the car, I cut across the mountain top and turned north at Mont-Louis.  I then followed the D118 north through a most beautiful and isolated area.  I wanted to stop for lunch but could not find the right spot.  It was Sunday (and Mother’s Day) and many places were closed.   Those that were open were hosting large families and formal meals, neither of which was on my agenda.  As the kilometers wound before me I marveled at how quiet things were…..and then noticed the time.  To be sure, around 2:30-3:00 the roads were a bit more crowded and busy….the lunch crowd had dispersed.  But for about two hours I thought that time had stopped for tout le monde, except moi as I traveled through timeless, hushed beauty.

As I came out of the mountains the temperature was on the rise.  I arrived in Maury around 4:00 in the afternoon with strong sun and temperatures hovering around 30.  The light breeze saved the air from any signs of oppression.  The town was on fire with activity and I soon understood that I had arrived right in the middle of a new (second year) tasting of AOC Maury wines hosted by the village of Maury.  There were around 25 wineries each with two or three wines in 5 separate locations around town, all walkable.  At each station a restaurant offered food.  There was music in the center of town at the community play yard.  I love arrival parties!!  I caught up with Jean-Roger Calvet and his wife, Marie at their winery station , picked up the key to “my” apartment (my third stay!!), and made arrangements to meet at the winery the next morning at 10:00.  The Calvets are my Roussillon winegrowing associates.  I can’t wait to introduce you to them.

Our plan for the next day was to work on a series of blends for the 2010 K2 grenache, Côtes Catalanes.  I couldn’t sleep a wink that night……

Not a Cloud in the Sky, Perfect Day for Handgliding

Welcome to the Neighborhood

Spring Arrives Late in Alpine Towns

Ring them Bells.....

Springtime in the French Mountains

Tags: ,

A week of family vacation is a true rest.  “Enjoyed” fully it restores not just the body but some core sense of being that only comes with family history. I put enjoyed in quotes because of the chiaroscuro that comes with the pain/pleasure of looking inward.  Family interactions demand family “bare your soul” kinds of evolution and inevitably there is some catharsis.  For me it is one of those things that I love and hate.  I always prosper from the experience, but it painfully peals away another leaf of insulation.

I had one final weekend before the last week of work and then home.  With no prior obligations to burden my thinking I pulled out the map to find some new territory.  I thought that I had read that Mirepoix was the capital of copper pots and with fantasies of one day having a kitchen of my own in France I headed out on Saturday morning with a destination.

As I was driving along my designated route I saw a sign for Limoux.  I had wanted to see that town as well; home of Blanquette de Limoux one of the world’s most delightful quaffs…and at full throttle, an up on two wheels left turn had me on a detour.

The town was incredibly vibrant.  I arrived around 11:00 on a picture perfect Saturday morning in the springtime.  Puffy clouds, razor sharp sunshine, a light breeze bordering on warm…you get the idea.  There was a market in the middle of town which came as no surprise but the streets seemed to be teaming with people.  Every weekend in May and June includes some kind of fête or celebration, often to wine, and people seem to truly enjoy the excuse to be out and about…and chatting!

After a short walk about town I was back on the road returning to my original destination, Mirepoix.  Coming out of Limoux I picked up the D620 and found myself driving through yet another spectacular valley in France.  I thought often about stopping to photograph the area but the spectacular nature of the hillsides would have been lost with my technology and ability.  What interests me is how what appear to be remote valleys have obvious “tree farms” up and down the hillsides.  If this is what it appears to be, managed forests inside natural habitats my compliments to the French.  There were no raped patches in among the wooded areas.  I can’t say whether or not it works economically, but it sure works ecologically.  A tear drop drive.

From the valley I hit farm land that was wide and open.  Agriculture shifted from tree farms to animal farms as this area allowed for fields of open grazing.  The landscape was incredibly picturesque.

Entering the town of Peyrefittes-du-Razès

First Town of the Valley

Moo

Food for Moo

Maison for Moo

Another Moo Another Town

Mirepoix is a bit of a surprise for someone that does not realize what “medieval city” means in France.  Even I, at 5’ 2” would be banging my head on ceilings and overhangs in this town.  It was an amazing site to see as the reality of time and change (especially marked by size) are visually in front of one.  Our ability to feed ourselves and prosper physically is abundantly (all puns intended) clear.

Food in an American tourist town is to be avoided at all costs.  The opposite is often true in France (and other old world cities as well).  I ended up in a lovely spot but with an odd premise.  The restaurant had a serious patisserie and then this add on lunch place. The menu was somewhat eclectic with only nominal hommage to the usual entrecôte et frites.  I ended up with a pasta with tandoori chicken and it was one of the best meals I have had in ages.  Delicate pâte, sweet chicken, lightly coated in a cream sauce exuding spices of turmeric, coriander, cumin, ginger, and Garam Masala.  Weird…medieval town, exotic food.   Yum!

Mirepoix Cathedral

The Scene from Lunch

Medieval Homes

New Commerce, Old Venue

From Mirepoix (oh, not sure about the pots but I saw no evidence of them!) I headed to Foix.  I missed the turn completely as the town of Foix was not along this new and improved road. My error took me through a long tunnel as I overshot the town.  Really amazing the way the Europeans tunnel through rock. Why does it seem different?  I flipped my way back along the side/town roads that twisted and turned, but mostly followed the tunnel.  I wanted to stay in Foix that night so made that the next objective.  During my round about method of returning to the city I noticed a small lake just north of town.   There I found a delightful hotel with an overlook to the lake, a perfect spot for the night.

The town of Foix turned out to be charming.  The sun does not set until late and there is time each evening for a long “sunset”.  I found mine in town and then lakeside.

"Street Sign" for Local School, Foix

Foix, Cared for by Their Castle

Sunset on My Lake

Final Sunset Swim with the Ducks

Tags: , ,
« Previous posts Next posts » Back to top