Eugenia Keegan

The weather has taken a turn here and winter has arrived. Although it is not cold out it is wet and windy. Really a day to sit by the fire but that is not my day. First, I don’t have a fireplace, but more importantly friends from Oregon are here today and we will be enjoying a leisurely French Friday lunch. Knowing that the afternoon will be very quiet (euphemism for nap) I thought I should get some work done early.

Hunting for mushrooms is serious fall endeavor for the southern French. Families spend weekends in the mountains gathering champignon and picnicking in the woods. And as the saying goes, “When in Rome….”.

Friends Carrie and Marcel had had a successful day hunting and gathering the week prior and as we had consumed the final catch in our pumpkin soup it was time to fill the cupboards.

We made an early start. The day could not have been more beautiful. The sky was a crystalline blue with one or two fluffy clouds. The wind was still sleeping off yesterday’s hangover. Almost two hours later we arrived at the most beautiful side of a mountain with the babbling brook and the forest floor sporting a copper and gold carpet of leaves.

It is amazing as you first look about and see just the forest and then slowly the magic presents itself.

Carrie packed a delicious lunch enjoyed after a full morning of gathering. We brought along a frying pan and olive oil for an added lunchtime treat.

We were joined on this outing by the great interns this harvest at Domaine des Enfants, Davide from Sardinia (yes, great coincidence since David and I were just there. Learned more about the treasured old vines of the island).

And Pascal from Switzerland.

The ‘shrooming bug has also bit Marcel and Carrie. As we drove the longer scenic route home we made many quick roadside stops when we spotted those little caps winking at us from the side of the road. And indeed, we were not alone in the hunt. This was a typical “look” as we drove homeward.

Final stop was at a small roadside cafe where we quenched our thirst and watched the sun slipping behind the mountains.

After 54 1/2 hours door to door (Sardinia to Newberg) I was thrilled to wash the travel grit off my tired self and flop into my own bed.  Nine hours later I was refreshed and ready to get back to work.  And although I had been “at work” while researching cannonau in Sardinia it was framed by the majestic Mediterranean.

I was reminded a couple of years ago about cannonau and the history of the Crown of Aragon who at one time was “given” the isle of Sardinia. We are told that they brought garnacha with them, although many Sardinians would beg to differ.  What there is agreement on however is that what is called cannonau in Sardinia is the same grape known as garnacha in Spain and grenache in France.  Hence, my need to explore and research.

We took the overnight ferry from Civitavecchia to Olbia, arriving in the very early morning, around 6:30.  It was a Sunday and the place was as expected very quiet.  The brilliant blue sky was a stunning wake up call, the silence almost eerie.  We meandered along the coast enjoying the beautiful Porto Cervo and were soon rewarded with a cappuccino and a brioche fresh from the oven.  It took a bit to find towels and the perfect beach but we did.  We rented an umbrella to keep the fair skinned fair and picked up a bit of sleep denied us on the boat (lack of time, not lack of sleeping quarters).  By 1:00 we were famished and found the quintessential shack on the beach…ah, but with an immaculate kitchen and a grill sizzling with the catch of the day.  We each picked a different fish, ordered a green salad, a dry vermentino, fries, and lingered over an impeccable repast.

David Boning Our Luncheon Fish

Lining Up for the Ferry to Sardinia

Darkness Descends

And the People Pile In Along with the Cars

Packed in Like Sardines!

Majestic Morning

Along the Porto Cervo 

Finding the Perfect Beach

Corsica in the Distance

SAVED from Our Tires!

Aragonese Watch Tower

Sunday in Sardinia

Since it was early in the “season” we decided to head over without the benefit of hotel reservations wanting complete freedom to explore.  We did have however some serious maps and instructions on finding Sardinia’s best wineries and vineyards.

Treasure Map handed to David in Hong Kong by Sardinian Winemaker

View from Our Hotel, Night One

Preparing Dinner

Always the Grill, Always Fresh Fish

An Ancient Nuraghe

 

Inside Cantina del Vermentino di Monti

Cork Trees Recently Harvested

Cork on Its Way to the Factory

Azienda Vitivinicola Giuseppe Gabbas

Cagliari, Capital of Sardinia

Yep, Old Vine Cannonau

Back on the Ferry

Fields of Girasole on the Road Back to Rome for the Flight Home

We were treated to a perfect week of sunshine (OK, hot…over 100 degrees) but softened by the coastal breezes.  We ate fish each day, most of it within hours of the catch.  The people were….well, Italian, and therefore friendly, helpful, and happy.

Will there be an Old Vine Grenache Project cannonau?  You can count on it!