Monday was an early start with a trip to the city of Albi. The historic home of the Albigensians, the town has moved light years from its bloody past. The outskirts are modern and commercial but within minutes one is inside the old city. The Bishop’s Palace is just as oppressive as the information contests. Apparently once the “heretics”, the Cathars were put down the Catholic Church felt the need to make a statement of its power and did so with this imposing building. It is indeed a huge presence, even today. Imagine the overwhelming reminder in the 13th century when it was built and the city was just a couple of square blocks.
I was first attracted to the city because of the museum that is now housed at the Palais de la Berbie (Bishop’s Palace), the Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec. Lautrec was born here and his mother left all of the works that were in her possession to what is now this museum. The collection includes over 1000 pieces including the 31 posters. I fell in love with the work of TL when I was in my teens. Somewhere I saw a postcard of one of his “horse series”. I was mesmerized by this artwork. It did not take much effort to find out more as my mother has a huge collection of art books. A quick check in the index under Toulouse-Lautrec soon had me buried in something called “Impressionism”. It has been a lifetime interest.
I drove straight into a storm on my long journey to the northwest and was blown into a sweet restaurant near the palace. The place was over run with Italians, a bit older (even than my generation) led by a young man who was in charge of “the visit to France”. I love the Italian language and it did not take long for a conversation to start. My youngest brother is married to an Italian and lives near Bergamo and just that alone is an hour’s worth of engaging conversation.
Quiche, salad, Lautrec, cheese, Italian, rosé, family, art….all in a day’s visit to Albi, a most charming city.
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