I have often been asked what I love about France and I have tried to put my finger on it all these years (this love affair started when I was around thirteen or fourteen and my mother introduced me to Colette).  I usually say something about tradition, love of the good life or maybe a more relaxed life (with food, wine, home, and hearth being the heart of this) but this trip I have come closer to understanding a part of French life that is most endearing.  There is a human element that is foremost in this culture. Each and every encounter must include some kind of physical gesture, a moment of personal intimacy if you will.  The most ritualized of course is the kiss(es) to the cheek. Regardless of socio-economic level there must be some kind of physical acknowledgment.  When Baptiste arrives at the vineyard to check on the pick for the day he greets each and every member of the crew (and this can be 20-25) with a handshake or the traditional cheek peck depending on how well he knows them.  The ladies of course all receive the trois bises of local custom.

I loved the early arrival each morning á la cave.  The feel was often early Autumn, sometimes late summer.  I started the work day with a round of bises that required one to seek out their work mates and in my case each of the “boys” in the cellar/vineyard, Baptiste, his father Alain, my co-worker Michel, Ahmed, etc. etc.   Three kisses is the tradition of southern Rhône, two in some areas and I found out that it is FOUR kisses for the Parisians……Michel is a Parisian!  The affectionate greeting sets a tone for the working relationship throughout the day.  I would love to try something like this in the states, but you can already see the mystified expression on everyone’s face!  Alors, one of the cultural idioms that must remain here at home in France.

Baptiste

Alain

Michel

Ahmed

Christian